Friday, October 25, 2013

The Land of the Gurkhas!


Seeing that  the gastronomical experience in Nepal has been well documented ... I thought I would spin one on the other highlights of the trip......

5 wonderful  days…...the awe inspiring  Himalayan ranges, trekking through thick forests,  rafting on frothy rivers to the spiritual Pashupatinath & Bhaktapur , Nepal for me, was also an opportunity to tick a few boxes off my bucket list and face a few of my fears.

With the cyclone from India working its way up North, it was rain, rain and more rain at Kathmandu, all the way to Pokhara . The drenched landscape was beautiful with its green rolling hills , the intermittent dots of houses , the rain fed turbulent Trishuli river winding its way to the plains , hanging bridges  that stretched from one side to the other, pretty girls  all decked up in red on account of Vijayadeshmi with big tikkas on their foreheads and jangling red bangles on their wrists .(The men? with all due respect..unfortunately nothing to shout about) 

Our first stop in that 6 hour journey to Pokhara  was at the white water rafting start point, where we kitted ourselves out with the mandatory life jackets , paddles etc..

Bring it on ! 
The Trisuli river, obviously in spate , with its steady shhhhhh sparked an initial rush of nervousness which disappeared once we were on the water. Not the grade 4 level that we expected, but enough to trigger a rush of adrenaline.  The  rich greenness of the lofty  hills on both sides of the Trisuli, bird calls , Trees bent over with the weight of the soaked branches and leaves ,the pitter patter of the light rain on the water over the sound of the rapids , icy splashes as the raft bobbed up and down making us catch our breaths , the misty spray of the white water just skimming the surface of the river… it was an amazing experience.  The feeling of being in the now, living life kingsize , at the same time wondering at how insignificant each one of us actually is in  the overall scheme of creation. It took my breath away and I was filled with a sense of gratitude. Sent a thank you thought to the powers that be.

My moment of truth No 1!!! Zipfly. The winding drive up the mountain was scary enough with the driver morphing into a formula 1 racer on narrow roads, where one side literally dropped out of sight... reaching  the zip fly tower perched way up on the highest hill  was almost an anticlimax. The view was amazing but the sight of the cables disappearing downwards into the distance scared me terribly. ‘I’m scared’, I kept repeating, hoping that someone will then say ok if you are that scared don’t do it. Thankfully no one did .My wise owl daughter said,’ Ma figure out what you are actually frightened of’. Hmmm..at that point too wound up to ponder over that.. 
I can remember the fear I felt as I walked up the tower where there were evil beings ready to hurl me to my fate. Palpitations, sweaty hands and then surprisingly yawns!!! What the heck?! There I was  at the point of no return standing by the gates looking down at this green abyss( not really seeing anything) wanting to cry , not wanting to  budge and then… yawning away.
Them evil beings hitched me to the seat fiddled around with some cables, swung the gates closed, doled out instructions in neutral tones, probably to offset my high pitched questions. I think there were encouragements also but I was too busy being scared and yawning. So there I was, feet braced on the closed gates which would swing open at any moment. Hardly had time to prepare mentally when the gates swung open and away I flew hurtling down. I remember looking up, eyes scrunched and screeching but almost immediately I stopped, no longer afraid , the harness was super safe and I felt super secure.
 Exhilarating it was, zipping down at 120mph over green green hills; wind on my face, Wheeeee Bring it on!! Pondering over my owl’s query later, I realized I was afraid of my fear. Does that make sense? To me it does. It wasn’t the height or the speed, it was being afraid of not knowing how to handle my fear!!  And I made a another big discovery.. I yawn when I’m scared silly. Will I do it again? O yes I will. It’s a piece of cake you bunch of scary cats.
   
Paragliding was a tad better, now super confident, after all…., I ZIP FLEW.. and also cos there was this cool dude with fantastic arms and  great hair behind me… couple of botched attempts at lift off (which my son  never fails to remind me of) and there I was running  off the cliff and then being lifted  back and up..(it was literally up, up and away ) What a feeling !!, Up there among the thin clouds.. So quiet… cool moist wind on my face, hearing only the glider wing, high  over the mountains of pokhara looking down at the city . Breathtaking!!!  Unlike the Zipfly, I  had all the time in the world to drink it all in.., The calm, dignified  glassy lake,  the rolling mountains with its snaky roads , the meandering river with its tributaries , the tiny houses that dotted the landscape , Looking up to see other paragliders all around… … Had the best 10 minutes of my life until  I started to get a tad sick and by the time my cool dude started spiraling us downwards, I was air sick. But it was so cathartic for me. 
Will I do it again? Will I run off a cliff? Nope, been there, done that  and besides, don’t wanna feel sick. …

Mah Jai ..high up in the clouds!

Pokhara is a beautiful city and one of the highlights of our stay  was  the amazing sunrise viewing trip early one morning. Having dragged myself out of my warm bed at an unearthly hour of 4 30 am , I had a few misgivings about how wonderful it would be . The treacherous van ride up the hills jolted me awake, these formula 1 guys I tell you…

‘So, what are we looking at, I asked the guide and he showed me a poster of the Annapurna range and indicated that on a clear morning ,one could see all the 5 peaks in particular the Fish tail peak .  Ok.. so we waited..  and I’m so grateful that we did.. After many moments, just when we were about to give up and head back,(twas a cloudy morn)the mighty sun shone through and persuaded the shy peaks to unveil themselves through the cloudy veil. Majestic is the only way to describe them, like gods revealing themselves to us lesser mortals, just for a moment , in order that we pay homage to their grandeur. So high up among the clouds, literally touching the heavens, it was easy to imagine the great Yogi, Shiva on those mighty Himalayan silvery peaks, looking down upon us. The clouds would quickly regroup and once again protectively shield them from prying eyes. Humbling experience to say the least.  Its apparently very rare that the purdah like clouds lift long enough to reveal the beautiful shy peaks.

Early morning peek at the Magnificent Fishtail peak.
Back in Kathmandu, the Pashupati temple stands out for me as the highlight of that sector. Spiritual ,historic, the cycle of birth and death so apparent there, with the crematorial ghats by the temple on one side and humanity on the other side paying obeisance  to the lord Shiva.   The ancient architecture of the different temples, combined with the chanting of slokas, the lamps, sound of bells, the incense stimulated all senses and overwhelmed me, the tears flowed and flowed.  Is it cos I am older, that I am affected in this manner, I ask myself. I have no answer to that. I unburdened a lot of myself there, a total surrender of mind and body.    Would I go back there? Yes I would, with my mom. 
The ancient Bhaktapur Square


Yes, Nepal was wonderful, even more so with my family and good friends by my side to share the experiences with. I will always remember the glorious nights outside our rooms, our own private garden, glasses in hand, listening to songs, singing along sometimes, reliving the day’s activities, each one of us with a different perspective and with hearts full, retiring for the night to recharge ourselves for the day that would follow. Another grateful note sent up to the Master Yogi on those silvery peaks. 

The White Crew.





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